Even before I moved to Charlotte, I had a favorite restaurant here: Coco Osteria. I ate there on my first visit to the Queen City (and every trip thereafter). I loved the food, the ambiance, and the service. I never once dined inside of Coco’s—I always sat outside with a bottle of wine smack dab in the middle of uptown surrounded by the energy of the city. To my horror, Coco’s shut its doors in December and reemerged as Malabar, a Spanish tapas restaurant, in January. I was devastated. To make matters worse, I had to walk right by 214 N Tryon every day on my way to and from work. I’d peer into the windows trying to get a feel for the place. I’d note how many people patronized the restaurant at various times of day. I inspected the menu dozens of times.
Last month I realized some of my favorite dishes from Coco’s are now served at Luce, a sister restaurant located in the same courtyard, mere steps away. So then I became a little less angry and slightly less hostile and decided to finally try Malabar. ![]()
Inside Malabar, the seating area is quaint with about 15 or so tables. They tend to fill up shortly after noon and again around 6:30 in the evening.
There is also a bar area with a handful of stools.
The Malabar dinner menu boasts four types of tapas (vegetable, meat, seafood, and cheese), plus entrees, and traditional made-to-order paella.
I needed a cocktail to assist me in analyzing the menu, and I opted for the Caipirinha, which had a mango puree and fresh muddled basil. It was different from traditional Brazilian Caipirinha, but very enjoyable nonetheless.
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It wasn’t an easy decision, but we opted for tapas rather than paella so that we could sample more of the menu.
The star plate of the evening was the Almejas a la Mancha (sautéed clams, chorizo, and saffron). At only $10, I think this was a pretty generous serving.
Both the chorizo and the clams were tender and coated in a delicious Spanish red sauce. My best bite was a sauce soaked piece of bread, topped with a large slice of chorizo, and garnished with a succulent clam.